The gateways: Bagdogra, NJP and Siliguri
Every trip to Gyalshing district (West Sikkim) starts in the plains of north Bengal. Bagdogra Airport (IXB) has direct flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Bengaluru and other cities. New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the main railhead, with overnight trains from Kolkata and long-distance trains from Delhi and Guwahati. Siliguri town sits between the two and holds the jeep stands for Sikkim.
There is no closer option. Pakyong Airport in Sikkim has had no scheduled flights since June 2024, and the Sevoke–Rangpo railway into Sikkim is not open, with completion targeted for December 2027. Plan on Bagdogra or NJP and check current status before you travel.
Bagdogra and NJP are only about 15 km apart, so choose whichever suits your journey; drive times to the hills are almost the same. Flights save a day from most cities but leave you racing daylight in winter. Overnight trains from Kolkata arrive early and give you a full day for the drive. Either way, the first day of any West Sikkim trip is a travel day, and we plan it that way rather than squeezing sightseeing into it.
Drive times and fares
The table gives typical drive times in dry weather and indicative 2026 fares for the main West Sikkim stops. Hill roads average 20–25 km/h once you leave the plains, and times stretch with traffic, roadworks and rain.
| To | Distance | Drive time | Small car (one way) | SUV (one way) | Shared jeep seat |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pelling from NJP | ≈ 135 km | 5–6 h | ≈ ₹5,000–6,500 | ≈ ₹6,500–8,500 | ≈ ₹400–600 to Gyalshing, then local jeep |
| Pelling from Bagdogra | ≈ 145 km | 5.5–6.5 h | ≈ ₹5,500–7,000 | ≈ ₹7,000–9,000 | Go via Siliguri |
| Yuksom from NJP | ≈ 170 km | 6.5–7.5 h | ≈ ₹6,500–8,000 | ≈ ₹8,000–10,000 | To Jorethang or Gyalshing, then onward jeep |
| Uttarey from NJP | ≈ 165 km | 6.5–7.5 h | ≈ ₹6,500–8,000 | ≈ ₹8,000–10,000 | To Gyalshing or Jorethang, then onward jeep |
| Gyalshing from NJP | ≈ 125 km | 4.5–5.5 h | ≈ ₹4,500–6,000 | ≈ ₹6,000–8,000 | ≈ ₹400–600 |
The route, stage by stage
From NJP or Bagdogra, the road crosses Siliguri and heads north to Sevoke, where it enters the Teesta gorge past the Coronation Bridge. It follows the Teesta on NH10 to Melli, about 2 hours from NJP, where you cross into Sikkim at the Melli check post. From Melli the road turns west to Jorethang on the Rangeet River, at only about 300 m, a market town and a good tea stop.
From Jorethang the road climbs along the Rangeet to Legship, then up through Gyalshing, the district headquarters, and the last 10 km to Pelling at about 2,150 m. For Yuksom, branch off at Legship towards Tashiding, or go through Pelling and on via Rimbi and Kanchenjunga Falls. For Uttarey, the road leaves Gyalshing or Jorethang towards Dentam, crosses the Singshore Bridge and climbs to the village.
Expect the climb to start in earnest after Jorethang. If anyone in your group gets car sick, sit in front, eat lightly and ask the driver for a break at Jorethang or Legship.
We turn this into a priced, day-by-day plan for your dates.
When NH10 closes
NH10 between Sevoke and Melli runs along the Teesta and closes in the monsoon after landslides, sometimes for days. When it is shut, cars for West Sikkim usually go up from Siliguri through Rohini or Pankhabari to Kurseong, on through Ghoom and Darjeeling, and then down to Jorethang. This adds about 1–2 hours and some cost, and the Darjeeling road itself can be slow in heavy rain.
From June to September, build a spare half-day into your plan, check the road the night before and start early. Your hotel or driver in Siliguri will know which route is open each morning. Check current status before you travel.
Landslides can also block shorter stretches inside Sikkim, especially between Legship and Gyalshing and on the Dentam–Uttarey road. Clearance crews usually open single lanes within a few hours, so a patient wait with a packed lunch often beats a long detour.
Timing your arrival
In winter the sun sets around 4:45–5 pm, and night driving on hill roads is slower and riskier. If you fly in, choose a flight that lands at Bagdogra by about 12:30 pm, so you reach Pelling before dark. If your flight lands later, stay the night in Siliguri or break the trip at Jorethang or Namchi and drive up next morning.
Overnight trains from Kolkata reach NJP early in the morning, which suits the drive perfectly. On the way home, leave Pelling by 7–8 am for an afternoon flight or train, and add an hour of buffer in the monsoon or in peak-season traffic around Siliguri.
Permits and paperwork on the way
Indian citizens need no permit to enter West Sikkim; carry photo ID for hotel check-in. Your hotel collects Sikkim's ₹50 per tourist entry fee, valid for 30 days, and children under five are exempt. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit for Sikkim. Since January 2026 it is issued online through the e-FRRO portal after you arrive in India, with approval in 24–48 hours; carry a printout or the PDF on your phone and show it at the Melli check post. Check current status before you travel.
- Carry photo ID (Aadhaar, passport, voter ID or driving licence) for every traveller.
- Download offline maps: signal drops in the Teesta gorge and on parts of the Uttarey road.
- Carry some cash for tea stops and jeep fares; UPI works in most towns but not everywhere.
- Agree taxi fares, including tolls and parking, before you set off.
Coming from Gangtok or Darjeeling
Many travellers combine Gangtok and Pelling. The usual road runs from Gangtok via Singtam and Ravangla to Legship and Gyalshing, about 120–130 km and 5–6 hours. A reserved small car costs about ₹4,000–5,500, and shared jeeps run in the morning from Gangtok to Gyalshing or via Ravangla. From Darjeeling, Pelling is about 70–75 km via Jorethang, roughly 3–3.5 hours, a popular one-day hop.
Breaking the Gangtok–Pelling drive at Ravangla, about 2.5 hours from Gangtok at roughly 2,100 m, turns a long day into two easy ones, with the Buddha Park and Ralang Monastery to see on the way. Coming from the south, Namchi, about 3.5–4 hours from NJP, makes a good first night for families or older travellers who prefer shorter drives: from Namchi to Pelling is about 2.5–3 hours via Jorethang and Legship.
Whatever the start, keep the same car and driver for the whole trip if you can. It costs a little more than piecing together one-way taxis, but the driver knows the plan, carries your bags between hotels and can change the route at short notice if a road closes.
Rules, fees, fares and road status change often. Check current status before you travel.
