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Village life · Lachung

An evening in a Lachungpa family kitchen

Spend an evening by the stove with a Lachungpa family: butter tea, thukpa, local greens and stories of the Dzumsa, herds and winter. The most personal hour of any Lachung trip, and a good reason to choose a homestay over a hotel.

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Photo: The original uploader was Jaiprakashsingh at E… · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

In Lachung houses the kitchen is the warm heart of the home. A wood or iron stove burns most of the day, a kettle of tea is always ready, and guests in a homestay are welcome to sit there while dinner is cooked. Expect simple food from the valley: rice, dal, potatoes, seasonal greens, eggs or chicken, thukpa noodle soup and sometimes churpi, a hard cheese made from yak or cow milk.

Conversation flows easily if you ask good questions. How does the Dzumsa choose the Pipon? When do the herds go up to the summer pastures? How did the village cope when the road was cut? What does a family grow in the short summer? Your hosts are not performers, so let the evening be what it is, and help with the dishes if invited.

If you are staying in a hotel, we can sometimes arrange a dinner visit with a family we know, paid directly to the hosts. It works best for small groups of two to four people and needs a day's notice. Carry a small gift from home rather than sweets bought in Gangtok.

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Questions travellers ask

Before you book

Is homestay food in Lachung vegetarian?

Vegetarian meals are easy: dal, rice, vegetables, potatoes and noodle soups are the everyday food. Many families also cook eggs, chicken or pork. Tell us in advance about vegetarian, Jain or allergy needs, since ingredients come up from Mangan and hosts plan ahead.

What is butter tea?

Butter tea is a salted tea churned with butter, drunk across Tibetan Buddhist communities in the Himalaya, including Lachung. It tastes more like a soup than sweet milk tea, and it is warming at altitude. It is polite to take a sip when offered; you can then ask for plain or milk tea.

Can we visit a family if we are staying in a hotel?

Sometimes, with a day's notice, for small groups. We arrange it through families we know and the payment goes directly to them. It is a dinner visit, not a show, so expect simple food and conversation. It cannot always be arranged in peak weeks, when hosts are busy with their own guests.

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