Tsomgo, also called Changu, is a glacial lake at 3,753 m about 40 km east of Gangtok on the road to Nathu La. It is Sikkim's most visited high-altitude sight, done as a day trip with Baba Mandir. A permit through a registered agent is required. It often freezes from January to March.
Bhutia nameTsomgo (Changu in Nepali)Means: 'Tso' lake + 'mgo' head: source of the lakeSource: Wikipedia: Lake Tsomgo
Best months
October–May (frozen January–March)
Nights we suggest
Day trip from Gangtok
From Gangtok
≈ 40 km · 2 h
Altitude
3,753 m
Known for
Glacial lake, snow, yaks, sacred to Sikkim's Buddhists
Permit
Required for all; through a registered agent, a day ahead
Tsomgo lies in a steep, oval basin about 40 km from Gangtok, roughly two hours by road on NH310 towards Nathu La. The lake is about 836 m long and up to 15 m deep, fed by snowmelt from the slopes around it. In Bhutia the name means 'source of the lake'; Nepali speakers call it Changu, and most taxi drivers use both names.
The road climbs from Gangtok's 1,650 m to 3,753 m in under 40 km, through Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, with its rhododendron, fir and juniper forest. At the lake you will find a short promenade, a small Shiva temple on the shore, yak and mule handlers, and rows of stalls selling tea, noodles, momos and hired snow boots. In winter the surface freezes and the slopes are white.
Tsomgo is a protected area. Indians and foreigners both need a permit, arranged through a registered agent a day ahead and usually bundled with Baba Mandir; foreigners get a one-day pass in groups of two or more. Nathu La, a further 15 km, is for Indian nationals only. The height is real: walk slowly, drink water and keep the visit to an hour or two.
Highlights
What to see and do
The lake in every season
From April to June the slopes green up and rhododendrons flower on the drive. October and November bring the clearest blue water and sky. From January to March the lake usually freezes and snow lines the road. Each season looks different enough that many Sikkim regulars have been several times.
The drive through Kyongnosla
The road climbs through Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, with silver fir, juniper and rhododendron forest and, in spring, red and pink blooms. Waterfalls spill onto the road in May and June. Ask your driver to stop at a safe pull-out rather than on blind bends.
Yaks on the shore
Herders bring decorated yaks to the lakeshore for short rides and photographs, for about ₹300–600. The animals are working livestock, so agree the price first, follow the handler's instructions and do not feed them snacks from the stalls.
Hot tea at 3,753 m
The stalls along the shore serve sweet tea, coffee, Maggi noodles, momos and thukpa, and rent gumboots, gloves and coats in winter. A hot drink helps more than you expect at this height. Carry cash in small notes; network coverage for UPI can be patchy.
Baba Mandir and Nathu La beyond
Most Tsomgo trips continue about 18 km to the Baba Harbhajan Singh shrine, and Indian nationals can add Nathu La (4,310 m) on permitted days. That makes a full day of 6–8 hours from Gangtok. Check current status before you travel.
The story of Tsomgo Lake
A lake that monks once read like a weather map
Tsomgo has long been sacred to the Bhutia and other Buddhist communities of Sikkim. Its name, from 'tso' (lake) and 'mgo' (head), marks it as a source of the streams that run down, eventually, to the Teesta. According to accounts recorded on Wikipedia and in Sikkim government material, monks traditionally watched the lake's changing colours through the year and read them as signs of what was to come. The lake does change: it can look slate grey under cloud, deep blue on clear autumn days and white when frozen from roughly January to March. Today about three lakh visitors a year stand on its shore, and a local conservation committee, the Tsomgo Pokhari Sangrakshan Samiti, collects a fee that goes towards keeping the shore clean. Treat it as a place of worship as well as a viewpoint: do not throw coins or rubbish into the water.
Source: Wikipedia: Lake Tsomgo; Sikkim Tourism permit notices
Little known
Things most visitors never hear
The lake covers about 24.5 hectares and is roughly 836 m long, 427 m wide and up to 15 m deep.
Source: Wikipedia: Lake Tsomgo
Part of the Tsomgo permit fee goes to the Tsomgo Pokhari Sangrakshan Samiti, a local committee that manages the lakeshore and its cleanliness.
Source: Sikkim Tourism permit notices, 2025
The road to Tsomgo passes through Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, set up in 1977 and one of the few places outside Kangchenjunga National Park where Sikkim's state bird, the blood pheasant, is regularly recorded.
Source: Wikipedia: Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary; BirdLife IBA factsheet
Shared Tsomgo and Baba Mandir tours run from Gangtok in season, with seats sold by agents for about ₹800–1,200 per person including the shared car; the permit is arranged with your ID and photos the day before. Departures are around 7–8 am. Foreigners usually need a reserved car with a registered agent.
Private car
A reserved car, usually an SUV, for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs about ₹4,500–6,500, or ₹6,500–9,000 with Nathu La. Only Sikkim-registered tourist vehicles with the right permit can go beyond the check post. Leave Gangtok by 7–8 am, as permits require you to return by mid-afternoon.
From Bagdogra / NJP
Tsomgo is a day trip from Gangtok, not a stop on the way from the plains. Plan at least one night in Gangtok first, both for the permit (issued the day before) and to acclimatise at 1,650 m before going up to 3,753 m. Check current status before you travel.
Indian travellers need no permit for Gangtok, Rumtek, Lingdum, Martam or Sang. Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir need a protected-area permit through a registered agent, usually filed the day before with ID and photos. Nathu La is for Indian nationals only, about ₹200 per person, usually Wednesday to Sunday. Cho La opened to domestic tourists in September 2025 on limited, escorted trips. Foreigners need the Sikkim restricted area permit, applied online on the e-FRRO portal, and may visit Tsomgo on a one-day pass in a group of two or more. Sikkim also charges a ₹50 tourist fee at hotels. Check current status before you travel.
There are no tourist hotels at Tsomgo, and overnight stays are not part of the standard permit. Stay in Gangtok and go up for the day: central hotels such as Hotel Tibet or The Chumbi Residency make early starts easy, and budget travellers do well at Mintokling Guest House or Hotel Sonam Delek. If you plan to continue to the Old Silk Route, homestays at Kupup, Gnathang and Zuluk in Pakyong district can be reached on a separate Silk Route permit.
From the Gangtok desk
Tips we give friends
Give your agent ID and two passport photos the day before; permits are issued in the evening.
Spend at least one night in Gangtok before going up, and do not run or climb at the lake.
Children under about five, pregnant travellers and people with heart or lung conditions should consult a doctor first.
Carry a warm jacket, gloves and sunglasses in every season; the sun reflects hard off snow and water.
The road closes after heavy snow or landslides; keep a spare day in your Gangtok plan.
Month by month
When to visit Tsomgo Lake
JFMAMJJASOND
BestGoodAvoid or closed
Tsomgo Lake is at 3,753 m. Spend a night lower down first, climb slowly and drink water. Headache, nausea or breathlessness at rest mean go down. The altitude ladder.
Yes. Both Indians and foreigners need a protected-area permit, arranged through a registered agent or taxi operator a day ahead with ID and photos. Foreigners get a one-day pass and must be in a group of two or more. It is usually bundled with Baba Mandir. Check current status before you travel.
How far is Tsomgo Lake from Gangtok?
About 40 km, which takes around two hours by road because of the climb, the bends and the permit check. The full Tsomgo and Baba Mandir trip takes 6–7 hours return, and adding Nathu La makes it 7–9 hours. Leave Gangtok by 7–8 am.
What is the best time to visit Tsomgo Lake?
October and November give clear skies and blue water. January to March bring snow and a frozen lake but occasional road closures. April and May offer flowers on the drive and milder weather. June to September is monsoon: cloud, rain and landslide risk on the road.
Is Tsomgo Lake safe for children and seniors?
Most healthy children and seniors manage a short visit, but 3,753 m is high. Keep the stay to about an hour, walk slowly and watch for headache, breathlessness or nausea. Children under about five, and anyone with heart or lung disease, should consult a doctor before going.
Can foreigners visit Tsomgo Lake?
Yes. Foreigners with the Sikkim Restricted Area Permit can visit Tsomgo on a protected-area permit, in a group of two or more, through a registered agent. They cannot continue to Nathu La, which is for Indian nationals only. Check current status before you travel.
Is Tsomgo Lake the same as Changu Lake?
Yes. Tsomgo is the Bhutia name, meaning 'source of the lake', and Changu is the name used in Nepali and by many drivers and agents. Signs, permits and tour packages use both, sometimes spelt Tsongmo or Chhangu. It is the same lake at 3,753 m.
What should we wear to Tsomgo Lake in summer?
Even in May and June it can be 5–12 °C at the lake, with wind and rain. Wear warm layers, a windproof jacket, closed shoes, a cap or hat and sunglasses. Carry a light raincoat or umbrella from June onwards, when monsoon showers are frequent.
Can we stay overnight near Tsomgo Lake?
No tourist accommodation is allowed at the lake on a standard permit. Visitors return to Gangtok the same day. If you want to stay high, the Old Silk Route homestays at Kupup, Gnathang and Zuluk in Pakyong district need a separate permit, for Indian nationals only.
What happens if the road to Tsomgo is closed?
Snow and landslides sometimes close the road for a day or more. Permits for that day are cancelled, and agents usually move you to the next open day. Keep a spare day in Gangtok, and check current status before you travel. We rebook permits for our guests when this happens.
Every cost shownRooms, car, permits and our fee, itemised
One person to callFrom Bagdogra or NJP until you are back
No payment to startA deposit only when you book
Get my price
Want Tsomgo Lake in your plan?
Tell us your dates, who is travelling and roughly what you want to spend. We reply within one working day with a day-by-day route and an itemised price.
No payment to start
Permits handled through registered partners
Every hotel, car and fee listed
Price my Sikkim trip
Tell us dates, people and budget. You get a day-by-day plan and an itemised price within one working day.
