Tea, momos and Maggi at the lake stalls

The stalls at Tsomgo are run mostly by families from the villages along the road, and many have been here for years. Inside, benches surround a stove, and the menu is short: sweet milky tea, black tea, coffee, instant noodles, momos, thukpa and sometimes churpi or local snacks. Prices are a little higher than in Gangtok, which is fair given the altitude.

Butter tea, the salted, churned tea of the high Himalaya, is available at some stalls if you ask. Many visitors find it strange at first, but it is warming and helps with dry air. Sweet tea and a bowl of thukpa are the safer bet for children.

Stall owners hear about road closures and snow conditions first, so ask about Nathu La and the road ahead. Many stalls also rent snow boots and coats in winter. Pay in cash with small notes, as mobile networks can be unreliable, and take your rubbish back with you.