Baba Mandir is an Indian Army shrine at about 4,000 m on the road between Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La, about 55 km from Gangtok. It honours Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the Punjab Regiment, who died near Nathu La in 1968 and is revered by soldiers as a protector. Visit with Tsomgo on one permit.
The shrine most visitors see, often called the new Baba Mandir, stands at a road junction about 18 km beyond Tsomgo Lake, where one road climbs to Nathu La and another runs towards Kupup and the Old Silk Route. It was built by the Army in November 1982 and is run by soldiers posted in the area. The setting is bare, high and windswept, with snow on the slopes for much of the year.
Inside are a portrait and statue of Harbhajan Singh, his uniform, boots and personal belongings, and a small room kept as his quarters. Soldiers and visitors leave offerings and pray for safety. Outside there is a souvenir counter, a tea point and memorial boards that tell his story. The original shrine, his bunker, stands further along the Silk Route side, in what is now Pakyong district.
Baba Mandir is on the same protected-area permit as Tsomgo, and foreigners in groups of two or more can usually visit it, though they cannot go on to Nathu La. At around 4,000 m, keep the visit short and move slowly. It takes 30–45 minutes, usually as part of a 6–9 hour day from Gangtok. Check current status before you travel.
Highlights
What to see and do
The shrine and his quarters
The main hall holds Harbhajan Singh's portrait, statue and belongings, and a room is kept as his quarters, with a bed, uniform and boots. Soldiers maintain it with care. Remove your shoes, cover your head if asked and keep your voice low; it is a place of worship.
The memorial boards
Boards outside give his service details and the Army's account of how he died, escorting a mule column from Tuku La to Dongchui La in October 1968. Reading them takes five minutes and explains why soldiers on this frontier still revere him.
The road junction view
The shrine stands where the road splits towards Nathu La and towards Kupup and the Old Silk Route. On clear days you look across high, bare ridges and snowfields, with Kupup's lake country beyond. It is one of the most open views on the whole Tsomgo road.
Tea with the Army
A tea point near the shrine is run for visitors, and a hot drink at around 4,000 m is welcome. Soldiers here are friendly but busy; follow their instructions about parking, photography and time limits.
Open to foreigners
Unlike Nathu La, Baba Mandir is usually covered by the Tsomgo protected-area permit for foreign groups of two or more, so mixed groups can visit together. Foreign members wait here while Indian members continue to Nathu La. Check current status before you travel.
The story of Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
Sepoy Harbhajan Singh, 1946–1968
Harbhajan Singh was born into a Sikh family on 30 August 1946 in Sardarpura, in a district that is now in Pakistan. He matriculated from DAV High School in Patti, Punjab, in March 1965, and enlisted at Amritsar in the Punjab Regiment that year. On 4 October 1968, aged 22, he died near Nathu La. According to the board beside his shrine, he fell into a nullah while escorting a mule column from Tuku La to Dongchui La. Soldiers came to believe that he continued to guard the frontier, appearing in dreams to warn of danger, and his story spread through the Army and beyond. In November 1982 the Army built the present shrine at the Kupup road junction. Wikipedia records a long-running custom in which his belongings were sent by train each September to his home village of Kuka in Kapurthala district, accompanied by soldiers, with a berth reserved in his name. He is widely known as 'Baba', and many soldiers posted here still salute his shrine.
Source: Wikipedia: Baba Harbhajan Singh; memorial board at the shrine
Little known
Things most visitors never hear
The present Baba Mandir was built on 11 November 1982 at the junction of the road to Kupup and the trail towards Menmecho Lake; the original shrine is his bunker further along the Silk Route side.
Source: darjeeling-tourism.com; Wikipedia: Baba Harbhajan Singh
Harbhajan Singh served in the Army for just over three years, from 30 June 1965 until his death on 4 October 1968.
Source: Wikipedia: Baba Harbhajan Singh
As told locally, visitors leave bottles of water at the shrine and collect them later, believing the water has been blessed; many drivers will offer you one.
Source: As told locally
Experiences
Hours worth planning in Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
Shared Tsomgo and Baba Mandir tours run daily from Gangtok in season, for about ₹800–1,200 a seat including the shared car. Hand over ID and two photos to the agent the day before. Departures are around 7–8 am, back by mid-afternoon.
Private car
A reserved SUV for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs about ₹4,500–6,500, or ₹6,500–9,000 with Nathu La. Only Sikkim-registered tourist vehicles on permit can go beyond the check post. The drive from Tsomgo to the shrine is about 18 km, roughly 45 minutes.
From Bagdogra / NJP
Baba Mandir is reached only from Gangtok on a permit day trip, or from the Silk Route side on a Pakyong district Silk Route permit. Spend at least one night in Gangtok first. NH10 from the plains closes in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.
Permits in East Sikkim
Indian travellers need no permit for Gangtok, Rumtek, Lingdum, Martam or Sang. Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir need a protected-area permit through a registered agent, usually filed the day before with ID and photos. Nathu La is for Indian nationals only, about ₹200 per person, usually Wednesday to Sunday. Cho La opened to domestic tourists in September 2025 on limited, escorted trips. Foreigners need the Sikkim restricted area permit, applied online on the e-FRRO portal, and may visit Tsomgo on a one-day pass in a group of two or more. Sikkim also charges a ₹50 tourist fee at hotels. Check current status before you travel.
There is no tourist accommodation at Baba Mandir. Stay in Gangtok and visit on the Tsomgo day trip: Hotel Tibet, The Chumbi Residency and Elgin Nor-Khill are convenient for early pickups, while Mintokling Guest House and Hotel Sonam Delek suit budget travellers. Indian travellers doing the Old Silk Route can stay in homestays at Kupup, Gnathang or Zuluk in Pakyong district and visit the old Baba Mandir bunker on the same trip.
From the Gangtok desk
Tips we give friends
Remove shoes, cover your head if asked, and do not photograph inside without permission.
Keep the visit to 30–45 minutes at around 4,000 m and climb the shrine steps slowly.
Carry warm layers and gloves; the junction is exposed and windy in every season.
Foreign members of a group can visit Baba Mandir but must wait here while Indians go to Nathu La.
Follow soldiers' instructions on parking and photography without argument.
Month by month
When to visit Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
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Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir is at 4,000 m. Spend a night lower down first, climb slowly and drink water. Headache, nausea or breathlessness at rest mean go down. The altitude ladder.
The new Baba Mandir is about 55 km from Gangtok, roughly 18 km beyond Tsomgo Lake, at the junction where roads go to Nathu La and to Kupup. It stands at about 4,000 m. The original shrine, the old Baba Mandir, is further along the Silk Route side in Pakyong district.
Do we need a permit for Baba Mandir?
Yes. Baba Mandir is inside the protected area covered by the Tsomgo permit, arranged through a registered agent a day ahead with ID and photos. Indians and foreign groups of two or more can visit. Check current status before you travel, as rules change.
How much time is needed at Baba Mandir?
About 30–45 minutes is enough to visit the shrine, see his quarters, read the memorial boards and have tea. Longer is not advisable at around 4,000 m. The whole Tsomgo and Baba Mandir trip takes 6–7 hours return from Gangtok.
Is Baba Mandir open every day?
It is usually open daily for visitors on the Tsomgo permit, though access depends on road conditions, snow and security. Nathu La, beyond it, is usually closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Check current status before you travel, and keep a spare day in Gangtok.
What is the story of Baba Harbhajan Singh?
He was a 22-year-old sepoy of the Punjab Regiment who died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968, falling into a nullah while escorting a mule column. Soldiers came to believe he still protects the frontier, and the Army built his shrine in 1982.
Can we visit Baba Mandir without going to Nathu La?
Yes. The standard Tsomgo and Baba Mandir trip does not include Nathu La, and it is the usual plan for foreigners, families with small children and anyone travelling on Mondays or Tuesdays. A reserved car costs about ₹4,500–6,500 for this shorter circuit.
What should we wear to Baba Mandir?
Dress warmly in layers: thermal, fleece and a windproof or padded jacket, with gloves and a hat. Wear shoes that slip off easily, as you remove them at the shrine. Women may be asked to cover their heads; carry a scarf. Sunglasses help against snow glare.
Is there food at Baba Mandir?
There is a tea point and usually simple snacks near the shrine. For a proper meal, eat at the Tsomgo stalls or wait until you return to Gangtok. Carry water and snacks in the car, especially for children, as the day is long and food options are limited.
Why do people leave water bottles at Baba Mandir?
As told locally, visitors leave bottles of water at the shrine and collect them later, believing the water is blessed. Many drivers and soldiers will explain the custom. Take your bottle back with you; do not leave plastic behind in the mountains.
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