Rumtek is Sikkim's largest monastery, 24 km from Gangtok across the Ranikhola valley at about 1,500 m. Rebuilt by the 16th Karmapa after he fled Tibet in 1959 and inaugurated in 1966, it is the main seat of the Karma Kagyu school in exile. Plan a half day; carry photo ID.
Rumtek faces Gangtok from the opposite side of the Ranikhola valley, about 24 km and an hour by road via Ranipool. The first monastery here was built in the mid-18th century under the 12th Karmapa. The present Dharma Chakra Centre, the big gilded complex most people mean by Rumtek, was built in the early 1960s by the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, after he left Tibet in 1959.
The main assembly hall is modelled on Tsurphu, the Karmapas' seat in Tibet, and is richly painted with murals, thangkas and a large Buddha statue. Behind it are the Golden Stupa holding the relics of the 16th Karmapa and the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute for higher Buddhist studies. About 2 km below, the much smaller Old Rumtek Monastery is where the main summer mask dances are held.
Since the 1990s Rumtek has been at the centre of a dispute over the succession of the 17th Karmapa, and armed security has been posted at the gate since the early 2000s. In practice that means an ID check and a calm, orderly visit. Go in the morning to hear the monks' prayers, and combine Rumtek with Ranka and Lingdum, or with a night in Martam village.
Highlights
What to see and do
The main assembly hall
The Dharma Chakra Centre's prayer hall, modelled on Tsurphu in Tibet, is painted floor to ceiling with murals of Kagyu masters and protector deities. Sit at the back during the morning or afternoon prayers and listen to the long horns and chanting. Remove shoes and hats, and ask before taking photographs.
The Golden Stupa
Behind the main hall, a gilded reliquary stupa holds the relics of the 16th Karmapa, who rebuilt Rumtek and died in 1981. Pilgrims circle it slowly; join them clockwise. The room is small and quiet, so keep voices low and phones away.
Old Rumtek Monastery
About 2 km below the main complex, the older, smaller monastery has a cheerful painted façade and far fewer visitors. It hosts the Tse-chu mask dances in early summer. Most taxis skip it unless you ask, so add it to your list when you agree the fare.
The view back to Gangtok
From the monastery approach road you look across the Ranikhola valley at the whole spread of Gangtok on its ridge, with the Kangchenjunga range behind on clear winter days. It is one of the few places where the capital fits in a single photograph.
Karma Shri Nalanda Institute
The college for higher Buddhist studies behind the main hall trains young monks in philosophy, debate and ritual. It is not a tourist site, but you will see students in maroon robes crossing the courtyards between classes. Respect closed doors and signs.
The story of Rumtek
The 16th Karmapa's arrival in 1959
In 1959 the 16th Gyalwang Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, head of the Karma Kagyu school, left his seat at Tsurphu in Tibet with a party of monks and the lineage's most precious objects. He came to Sikkim, where the royal family were long-standing patrons of the Kagyu tradition. At Rumtek he found the old monastery, founded in the mid-18th century under the 12th Karmapa, in ruins. Although other sites were offered, he chose to rebuild here. With support from the Sikkim royal family, a new monastery rose over about four years, and the Dharma Chakra Centre was inaugurated at Losar, the Tibetan New Year, in 1966. It became the Karmapa's seat outside Tibet. The 16th Karmapa died in 1981, and a golden stupa behind the main hall holds his relics. The later dispute over who is the rightful 17th Karmapa has kept the seat largely empty of its lineage head ever since.
The main summer mask dances, the Tse-chu chaams, are held at Old Rumtek Monastery, not the big complex, on the 10th day of the 5th Tibetan month, usually in June.
Indian security forces have been stationed at Rumtek since 2003, when they removed monks from one faction to prevent violence in the Karmapa succession dispute.
Source: Wikipedia: Rumtek Monastery
Two days before Losar, Rumtek's monks hold Gutor chaam, a mask dance that ends a week of Mahakala rites meant to clear away the old year's obstacles.
Shared jeeps to Rumtek leave from a stand in central Gangtok (your hotel will know the current one) through the morning and return in the afternoon, for about ₹80–120 a seat. Timings change and the last return can be early, so ask the stand the day before and confirm the return time with the driver.
Private car
A reserved small car from Gangtok costs about ₹1,500–2,500 for Rumtek and back, or ₹2,500–3,500 if you add Ranka, Lingdum and Old Rumtek. The road drops to Ranipool and climbs the far side of the valley; allow about an hour each way.
From Bagdogra / NJP
Rumtek is reached through Gangtok or by turning off NH10 at Ranipool. From Bagdogra or NJP allow 4–5 hours by car. Many travellers visit on the morning they arrive, or on the way out before heading down to the plains. NH10 closes in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.
Indian travellers need no permit for Gangtok, Rumtek, Lingdum, Martam or Sang. Tsomgo Lake and Baba Mandir need a protected-area permit through a registered agent, usually filed the day before with ID and photos. Nathu La is for Indian nationals only, about ₹200 per person, usually Wednesday to Sunday. Cho La opened to domestic tourists in September 2025 on limited, escorted trips. Foreigners need the Sikkim restricted area permit, applied online on the e-FRRO portal, and may visit Tsomgo on a one-day pass in a group of two or more. Sikkim also charges a ₹50 tourist fee at hotels. Check current status before you travel.
Most visitors stay in Gangtok and come for a half day. For a night outside the capital, Martam village, about 5–8 km beyond Rumtek, has family homestays among terraced paddy fields; it is listed with us as Martam village homestays. A few small guesthouses near the monastery gate cater mainly to pilgrims and students, and are basic. In Gangtok, the hotels on Tibet Road, such as The Chumbi Residency or Netuk House, are about an hour away and make early starts easy.
Rumtek is about 24 km from Gangtok, roughly an hour by road. The route drops to Ranipool on NH10 and climbs the far side of the Ranikhola valley. A reserved small car costs about ₹1,500–2,500 return, and shared jeeps cost about ₹80–120 a seat.
What is the entry fee for Rumtek Monastery?
There is a small entry fee, usually about ₹10–20 per person, collected near the gate. Carry original photo ID for the security check: Aadhaar, passport, voter ID or driving licence. Foreign visitors should carry their passport with the Sikkim permit. Check current status before you travel.
Who built Rumtek Monastery?
The first monastery was built in the mid-18th century under the 12th Karmapa. The present Dharma Chakra Centre was built by the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, after he left Tibet in 1959, with support from the Sikkim royal family. It was inaugurated at Losar in 1966.
Is Rumtek worth visiting if we have only one day in Gangtok?
If you are interested in Buddhism or architecture, yes; it is the largest and most important monastery in Sikkim. With only one day, though, many travellers choose between Rumtek and the town sights. A half-day Rumtek, Ranka and Lingdum trip plus an evening on MG Marg works well.
What should we wear to Rumtek?
Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered, no very short skirts or shorts. Remove your shoes before entering prayer halls and your hat inside. Carry a light jacket: Rumtek is slightly lower than Gangtok but can be breezy. Comfortable shoes help, as there is a short climb from the parking area.
Can foreigners visit Rumtek?
Yes. Foreigners with the Sikkim Restricted Area Permit, obtained online through e-FRRO, can visit Rumtek without any extra permit. Carry your passport for the security check at the gate. Check current status before you travel, as permit rules change.
What is the best time of day to visit Rumtek?
Morning, before about 10 am, is best: the light is soft, the courtyard is quieter and you may catch the monks' prayers. Afternoon prayers around 3–4 pm are a second chance. Midday in peak season, when tour cars arrive together, is the most crowded time.
Are there places to eat at Rumtek?
A few small cafés and stalls near the monastery gate serve tea, momos, noodles and simple thalis for about ₹100–250. Choices are limited, so plan a proper lunch in Gangtok, Ranka or at a Martam homestay. Carry water, especially on warm spring days.
When are the mask dance festivals at Rumtek?
The main ones are the Gutor chaam at the main monastery two days before Losar (February or March), the Tse-chu chaams at Old Rumtek on the 10th day of the 5th Tibetan month (usually June) and the Kagyat dances at Old Rumtek in December. Check current status before you travel.
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