Who can go where
The road east of Gangtok climbs from about 1,650 m to the Tibet border in roughly 54 km. Because it runs into a sensitive border area, every visitor needs a permit, and the rules differ for Indian nationals and foreigners. Permits are issued only through travel agents registered with Sikkim Tourism, for a named registered vehicle and driver. You cannot drive your own car or a West Bengal taxi up this road.
The table shows the position as we understand it in 2026. It changes with security reviews, snow and road work, so check current status before you travel.
| Place | Altitude | Indians | Foreign nationals |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tsomgo Lake | 3,753 m | Permit via registered agent | One-day permit, group of 2+, via agent |
| Baba Mandir | about 4,000 m | Usually bundled with Tsomgo | Ask us; rules have varied |
| Nathu La | 4,310 m | Permit, usually Wed–Sun | Not allowed |
| Cho La | high pass near Nathu La | Opened 27 Sep 2025, limited vehicles a day | Not allowed |
How the permit works
You do not queue for this permit yourself. Your hotel or a registered agent applies the day before, with a photo ID and two passport-size photos for each traveller. Indians should carry the same original ID on the day; checks at the 15th Mile post compare names. Some counters have refused certain ID types in the past, so a passport, voter ID or driving licence is the safest choice. Foreign nationals need their Sikkim Restricted Area Permit, which since 12 January 2026 is applied for online on the e-FRRO portal after arrival in India, and a passport.
Nathu La costs about ₹200 per person for the permit itself, and agents add a handling charge. It is usually open to tourists from Wednesday to Sunday and closed on Monday and Tuesday, though one or two sources list fewer days, and the Army closes it after snow. In May 2024 the Sikkim tourism department fixed the round-trip taxi fare from Gangtok to Nathu La at ₹6,500 for a normal vehicle and ₹7,000 for a luxury vehicle, including the permit charge, as reported by PTI. Fares have moved since; ask for the current rate in writing.
- Two passport-size photos per person
- A photo ID per person (passport, voter ID or driving licence is safest)
- Foreigners: passport and e-FRRO Restricted Area Permit, travelling as two or more
- Hand documents to the agent by the afternoon before
- Children need ID too: a school ID or birth certificate with a photo works for most agents
The day, hour by hour
Vehicles leave Gangtok from about 7:00 to 8:00 am. After 15th Mile, where the permit is checked, the road climbs through the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, a protected forest of rhododendron and fir. Tsomgo Lake, 38–40 km and about 1.5–2 hours from town, is the first stop. In Sikkimese the name is usually explained as tso (lake) and mgo (head). The lake is about 836 m long, freezes in winter and has long been read by Buddhist monks for signs in its changing colour. Spend 45 minutes to an hour; there are tea stalls, and yaks for photos.
From the lake the road climbs to Baba Mandir. Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the Indian Army died near Nathu La on 4 October 1968, and soldiers built a shrine to him; the newer temple most tourists visit was built on 11 November 1982 at the junction of the Kupup road and the trail to Menmecho Lake. Many soldiers still treat him as a guardian of the border.
Nathu La is a short, steep climb further. You walk the last stretch to the border fence, at 4,310 m, where Indian and Chinese posts face each other. The pass was one of the old trade routes between Sikkim and Tibet; it was sealed for more than four decades and reopened for border trade on 6 July 2006, and since 2015 it has been one of the routes for Kailash Mansarovar pilgrims. Visitors usually get 30–45 minutes. Most vehicles are back in Gangtok by 3:30–4:30 pm.
| Stop | From Gangtok | Typical time there |
|---|---|---|
| 15th Mile check post | ≈ 15 km · 45 min | 10–20 min |
| Tsomgo Lake | ≈ 38–40 km · 1.5–2 h | 45–60 min |
| Baba Mandir | ≈ 52 km · 2.5 h | 20–30 min |
| Nathu La | ≈ 54–56 km · 3 h | 30–45 min |
We turn this into a priced, day-by-day plan for your dates.
What it costs in 2026
A shared seat to Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs about ₹1,000–1,300 per person in 2026 including the permit, and with Nathu La about ₹1,300–1,600. A reserved Sumo, Bolero or WagonR-class vehicle for Tsomgo and Baba Mandir costs about ₹4,500–5,500, and with Nathu La about ₹6,500–7,500. An Innova-class SUV costs ₹1,000–1,500 more. Add ₹100–200 for snow-boot rental in winter, a few hundred rupees for a yak photo and about ₹300–500 for tea and snacks.
For a couple, a shared seat is usually the cheapest. For four or more, or for families with grandparents who need the car to stop often, reserve the vehicle. All prices are indicative; check current rates before you travel.
Altitude, cold and safety
This is the highest most visitors will go in Sikkim, and it happens in a single morning: from 1,650 m to 4,310 m in about three hours. You are not up there long, which helps, but headaches and breathlessness are common. Spend at least one night in Gangtok before the trip, drink water, walk slowly at the lake and at Nathu La, and do not run up the steps to the border fence.
Anyone with a worsening headache, vomiting, confusion or breathlessness at rest should go down at once; the cure for altitude sickness is descent. People with heart or lung conditions, and pregnant travellers, should ask their doctor first and may choose to stop at the lake. Temperatures at Nathu La are below freezing for much of the winter and cold in any season, and the wind is sharp. Wear layers, a cap and gloves, and sunglasses.
Best months and closures
October and November give the clearest skies and a calm, blue lake. December to March brings snow, which many visitors come for, but also the most permit holds: Nathu La and sometimes Tsomgo close after heavy snowfall until the Army clears the road. April and May are pleasant, with the lake thawing and rhododendrons out in the Kyongnosla forest. June to September is the monsoon: the road stays open on most days, but cloud often hides the lake and NH10 into Sikkim can close after landslides.
Build the trip into the middle of your Gangtok stay so that a cancelled day can be moved. If you are combining it with the Old Silk Route, the road beyond Baba Mandir leads to Kupup and Zuluk in Pakyong district, which needs a separate Indians-only permit through Rongli.
Mistakes we see every season
Most problems on this trip are avoidable, and most come from trying to fit it into the wrong day. These are the ones we see most often from guests who booked elsewhere before coming to us.
- Planning Nathu La on a Monday or Tuesday, when it is usually closed
- Doing the trip on arrival day, straight up from the plains, with no night at Gangtok
- Putting it on the last full day, so a snow closure cannot be moved
- Forgetting passport photos and having to find a studio in the evening
- Wearing city shoes in January, when the lake path is ice
- Booking a West Bengal taxi, which cannot take you beyond Gangtok on this road
- Paying a lobby quote without comparing one registered agent
Rules, fees, fares and road status change often. Check current status before you travel.
