Culture · Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir
The old Baba Mandir bunker on the Silk Route
On the Old Silk Route side, beyond the new shrine, stands the original Baba Mandir, built at Harbhajan Singh's bunker. It is reached on Pakyong district's Silk Route circuit, for Indian nationals only, and involves a climb of many steps at high altitude.
Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Before the 1982 shrine was built at the road junction, soldiers honoured Harbhajan Singh at the bunker where he had been posted. That original shrine, now known as the old Baba Mandir, stands further along the high road on the Silk Route side, in what is now Pakyong district. Fewer tourists reach it because of the terrain and the separate permit.
Reaching it involves climbing a long flight of steps at well over 3,500 m. Take it very slowly, with frequent rests, and do not attempt it if you felt unwell at Tsomgo or Nathu La. Inside, the shrine is small and simple, with offerings left by soldiers and pilgrims.
The old Baba Mandir is visited on the Old Silk Route circuit from Rongli or Gangtok, with nights at Zuluk, Gnathang or Kupup. That circuit is for Indian nationals only, with a permit through Rongli. Check current status before you travel. Ask us to combine it with Tsomgo for a two- or three-day high-road trip.
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Where is the old Baba Mandir?
The old Baba Mandir stands at Harbhajan Singh's original bunker on the Silk Route side of the high road, beyond the 1982 shrine, in what is now Pakyong district. It is usually visited on Old Silk Route trips with nights at Zuluk, Gnathang or Kupup, not on the standard Tsomgo day trip.
Is the old Baba Mandir difficult to reach?
It involves climbing many steps at high altitude, above 3,500 m, which is hard work even for fit people. Go slowly and rest often. Skip it if anyone in your group has heart or lung problems or felt unwell earlier in the trip. Younger children should be carried or stay below.
Can we visit the old and new Baba Mandir on the same day?
Only on an itinerary that combines the Tsomgo road with the Old Silk Route, which needs the right permits and is for Indian nationals only. We usually plan it as a two- or three-day trip with a night at Gnathang or Zuluk. Check current status before you travel.
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