Walk through the old caravan village

Zuluk is small enough to walk end to end in twenty minutes, but the point is to slow down. Start at your homestay and ask your host to come along, or at least to tell you where the old mule path ran before the road. Wikipedia notes that traders used Zuluk as an overnight base on the Kalimpong–Tibet route, which climbed through Pedong and Aritar to Jelep La.

Along the way you pass small shops selling tea, biscuits and woollens, prayer flags strung between houses, stacked firewood for winter and the edge of the army camp, which you must not photograph. Families here live with snow for several months a year, and many work with the army or the road teams, or run homestays and tea stalls for travellers.

Late afternoon is the best time, when the light turns gold on the loops above the village and the mist sometimes rolls up from the valley. Wear warm layers; the temperature drops fast after 4 pm. Ask before photographing anyone, and buy something small from the shops: it all helps a village that depends on a short tourist season.