Joining pilgrims at the Tholung Kamsel

The Kamsel, also spelled Kamsil or Khamsel, is the ceremony at which Tholung's boxes of relics and manuscripts are unsealed, brought out into the sun and shown to pilgrims over a few days, then sealed again. It is overseen by Sikkim's Ecclesiastical Affairs Department, and monks lead prayers throughout. For many Sikkimese Buddhists it is a pilgrimage of a lifetime.

Dates are set by the religious authorities and announced ahead of time. The ceremony was traditionally held in spring, but the 2021 Kamsel took place in late November, so do not assume a month. In a Kamsel year, upper Dzongu fills with pilgrims, vehicles queue at the road-head, and homestays book out early.

Visitors should treat it as a religious event first. Dress modestly, walk clockwise, follow the queue and the monks' instructions, and ask before taking any photograph; photography of the relics may not be allowed. We plan Kamsel trips with an extra night so that a delay on the road does not cost you the day.