Culture · Pemayangtse Monastery
Watching the February mask dances
Time your Pelling trip for the last two days of the Tibetan year, when Pemayangtse's monks dance in masks and brocade in the courtyard to clear away the old year's obstacles.
Photo: Arian Zwegers from Brussels, Belgium · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
Pemayangtse's mask dances fall on the 28th and 29th days of the 12th Tibetan month, in February, according to Wikipedia's article on the monastery. Like other Nyingma chaam, they are a ritual: the dancers, all monks, embody protective deities whose movements destroy harmful forces so the new year can begin cleanly at Losar.
The dances run for several hours each day to horns, cymbals and drums. Families from Pelling, Gyalshing and nearby villages come in their best clothes, and the courtyard steps fill quickly. The climax usually involves the ritual destruction of an effigy.
February in Pelling is cold, around 1–13 °C, but mountain views are often clear, and hotels are cheaper than in autumn. Bring a cushion or mat for the steps, warm layers and a flask. Stay at a distance from dancers and never cross the dance ground.
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Questions travellers ask
Before you book
What are the dates of the Pemayangtse mask dances?
The 28th and 29th days of the 12th month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, just before Losar, which normally falls in February. The Gregorian dates change every year. We confirm them with the monastery before booking a festival trip. Check current status before you travel.
Can I photograph the mask dances?
Outdoor photography in the courtyard is generally tolerated during the dances, but stay off the dance ground, do not use flash and do not block the view of local families. Some moments may be off limits; follow monks' instructions. Never fly a drone over the monastery.
Is Pelling crowded during the February festival?
Busier than usual in February, but far less crowded than October or May. Local families and pilgrims attend, so book rooms a few weeks ahead for the festival nights. Rates are generally lower than peak season, and mountain views are often clear.
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