An evening by the Rangeet at Jorethang

The Rangeet rises in the mountains of West Sikkim and flows past Legship and Jorethang before joining the Teesta at Tribeni. At Jorethang it is a broad river in a warm valley, and for much of its course it marks the boundary between Sikkim and Darjeeling district.

Walk down from the bazaar to the riverbank in the late afternoon. In winter the water runs clear and green-blue over stones, and local families come down to sit and talk. Watch the light change on the hills to the west, then head back for tea and pakoras in town.

This is a relaxed stop, not an expedition. In the monsoon, from June to September, the river rises fast and turns brown and dangerous; keep well back from the banks and do not wade at any time of year. Carry a bag for rubbish and leave the riverside cleaner than you found it.