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Culture · Rinchenpong

Walk to Bikh Pokhari, the Poison Lake

A short walk to the small pond that Rinchenpong remembers as the Poison Lake, where, as told locally and recorded on Wikipedia, defenders poisoned the water to stop a British force. Hear the story from a local guide and see how memory shapes a landscape.

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Photo: Amitabha Gupta · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Bikh Pokhari means poison pond in Nepali. It lies near the junction on the path towards Rinchenpong Monastery, a small, still body of water among trees. It is not a scenic lake, and that is not the point. The village remembers it as the place where, during a British advance into this part of Sikkim, local Lepcha and Gorkha defenders poisoned the only water source with a mix of herbs. Wikipedia's Rinchenpong article records the account, including the claim that the poisoning killed many soldiers and forced a peace.

We tell this as local tradition. We have not found a dated British record that names the place, and the details shift depending on who tells it. What is certain is that the story matters here: the pond is pointed out to every visitor, and people still say the water is unsafe. Respect that. Do not drink, wade in or throw anything into it, and keep children and dogs back from the edge.

The walk takes about an hour from the bazaar there and back, and is easiest combined with the monastery visit, since the path is the same. A local guide, about ₹500–800, adds the version of the story his own family tells, and points out medicinal plants along the way. Wear shoes with grip; after rain the path is muddy and leeches appear from June to September.

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Questions travellers ask

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Is the Poison Lake in Rinchenpong really poisonous?

Local people say the water is still unsafe, and Wikipedia repeats the claim that it remains poisoned. We have no test results either way. Treat it as unsafe: do not drink, touch or wade in the water, and keep children and pets away from the edge.

Is the Poison Lake story historically proven?

Not as far as we can find. Wikipedia records a local account of Lepcha and Gorkha defenders poisoning the lake to halt a British force, but we have not found a British record naming the place. We tell it as village tradition, which is how most people in Rinchenpong tell it too.

Where exactly is Bikh Pokhari?

It is beside the path that climbs from Rinchenpong bazaar towards the monastery, near a junction on the left as you go up. Ask at your homestay or at the taxi stand; everyone knows it. Most visitors see it on the way to or from the monastery.

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