Culture · Nathang Valley
Visit the Nathang war memorial
A short stop at the memorial near Gnathang that remembers men who died during the British occupation of the valley after the 1888 campaign, with the battlefield of 22 May 1888 around you.
Photo: Unknown author · Public domain, Wikimedia Commons
The memorial is small and plain, and many tour vehicles stop for only a few minutes. Give it longer. Wikipedia's article on Nathang Valley notes it remembers the men who lost their lives during the occupation of Gnathang in 1889 and 1890, the period when British Indian troops held the valley after driving Tibetan forces out in 1888.
Stand with your back to the memorial and the whole campaign is laid out: Lingtu ridge to the south, where the Tibetan fort stood; the valley floor where the British camp was attacked at 7 am on 22 May 1888; and the passes to the north and east, Tuko La and Jelep La, which Graham's force crossed later that year.
Many of those who died in such campaigns died of cold and disease, not only in battle. Be respectful: do not climb on the memorial. It sits near army areas, so ask before photographing and follow any instructions from soldiers. Indian nationals only, with the Silk Route permit.
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Questions travellers ask
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What does the Nathang war memorial commemorate?
According to Wikipedia's article on Nathang Valley, it remembers men who lost their lives during the British occupation of Gnathang in 1889–1890, following the 1888 Sikkim expedition against Tibetan forces. The valley was the scene of a Tibetan attack on the British camp on 22 May 1888.
How long should we spend at the memorial?
Twenty to forty-five minutes is enough to see the memorial, look over the battlefield and take in the story. Combine it with Gnathang's gumpa and a tea stop. At this altitude, walk slowly and keep the stop short if anyone feels unwell.
Can we photograph the memorial?
Usually yes, but the memorial is close to army areas where photography may be restricted. Ask soldiers if you are unsure, keep army posts and vehicles out of your frame, and never fly a drone. Respect the site as a grave memorial, not a photo prop.
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