Culture · Thangu
The Dokpa and the yak race of Lashar
Thangu is the doorway to the pastures of the Dokpa, herders of the high valleys north of Lachen, who still keep yak and sheep and hold a festival with a yak race in the Lashar valley. Learn their story as you watch the herds from the road.
Photo: Alexandr frolov · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Beyond Thangu, the valleys of Lashar, Lhonak and Muguthang are home in summer to the Dokpa, herders of Tibetan origin who graze yak and sheep on high pastures near the border. Lachenpa families also keep herds here. Wikipedia notes that the Dokpa of Lashar celebrate Drukpa Tsechi with a local yak race, a rare event that few outsiders see.
Most of this country is restricted and closed to tourists. What you can see from Thangu and the Gurudongmar road are herds grazing on the slopes, herders on foot or horseback, and stone shelters. ICIMOD researchers have documented how yak herding in these valleys is declining as young people find other work and as roads, border rules and climate change reshape the pastures.
Respect is simple: watch from the road, do not approach shelters, never feed or chase animals, and ask before photographing people. Buying churpi (hard cheese) or butter when offered supports herding families directly.
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Questions travellers ask
Before you book
Can tourists visit the Lashar or Lhonak valleys?
No, not on standard tourist permits. These valleys lie in restricted border areas beyond Thangu. Researchers and officials need special permissions. Tourists can see herds and herders along the Gurudongmar road instead.
What is Drukpa Tsechi?
Drukpa Tsechi is a Buddhist observance that marks the Buddha's first teaching, held in the sixth Tibetan month, usually around July or August. Wikipedia notes that the Dokpa of the Lashar valley celebrate it with a yak race. It takes place in a restricted area.
What is churpi?
Churpi is a cheese made from yak or cow milk, eaten across the eastern Himalaya. The hard, dried form is chewed slowly like a sweet; softer forms go into curries and soups. Herding families in North Sikkim make it, and buying some supports them.
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