Culture · Phodong
A December day at the Phodong chaam
Watch the annual chaam at Phodong Monastery on the 28th and 29th days of the 10th Tibetan month, usually in December. Monks in masks and brocade perform a sacred dance in the courtyard before Losoong, the Bhutia new year.
Photo: walter callens · CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
The chaam is a ritual, not a performance. Monks wearing masks of protector deities move in measured steps to long horns, drums and cymbals, enacting the clearing of obstacles before the new year. Jesters appear between the serious dances. Wikipedia's Phodong Monastery article gives the festival dates as the 28th and 29th days of the 10th month.
Because the lunar calendar moves, the Gregorian dates change each year, so confirm them with us or the monastery in November. Come early, by 9 am, to find a place at the edge of the courtyard, and be ready for crowds. The valley is cold in December, so wear warm layers and carry water and a cap.
Phodong is on the North Sikkim Highway and needs no protected area permit for Indian visitors, so the chaam is an easy day trip from Gangtok. Do not cross the dance ground, do not use flash or drones and ask before photographing people. Check current status before you travel.
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When is the Phodong chaam?
On the 28th and 29th days of the 10th Tibetan month, which is usually in early to mid December. The exact Gregorian dates change every year with the lunar calendar. Confirm with the monastery or with us in November, and check current status before you travel.
Can tourists watch the Phodong chaam?
Yes, visitors are welcome to watch from the edge of the courtyard. It is a religious ritual, so be quiet, stay off the dance ground, turn off phone sounds and follow the instructions of the monastery volunteers. Ask before photographing people, and avoid flash and drones.
Do we need to book a hotel for the chaam?
If you want to stay near Phodong, book early, as lodging is limited and local families attend. Most visitors come on a day trip from Gangtok, leaving by 6:30 to 7 am. For a stay, Mangan is about 29 km further north. Check current status before you travel.
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