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Culture · Lachen

Yaks, herders and the high pastures

North of Lachen, herders keep yak and sheep on the pastures of Thangu, Chopta, Lashar and Lhonak. Learn from a Lachenpa host how the herding year works, then watch for herds on the drive to Gurudongmar.

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Photo: Alexandr frolov · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Yak herding is one of the oldest livelihoods in the upper Lachen valley. Lachenpa families and the Dokpa, a herding community of the high valleys, take yak and sheep up to summer pastures and bring them down as winter closes in. ICIMOD researchers have documented how yak pastoralism in the Lhonak valley is changing, with fewer herders and new pressures from roads, borders and climate.

In a homestay, ask your host about the herding year: when the animals go up, who stays with them, what yak milk becomes (butter, churpi cheese), and how the floods and road closures of recent years affected families. Listen rather than interview; these are livelihoods, not folklore.

On the Gurudongmar drive you will likely see yaks near Thangu, in Chopta Valley and on the plateau. Keep your distance, do not feed them, and ask before photographing herders or their shelters. Some herders on the road charge for photos; agree a price first.

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Questions travellers ask

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Who are the Dokpa of North Sikkim?

The Dokpa (also written Drokpa) are herders of Tibetan origin who graze yak and sheep in the high valleys north of Lachen, such as Lashar and Lhonak. Wikipedia notes they celebrate a festival with a yak race. Their numbers are small and their areas largely restricted.

Where can we see yaks near Lachen?

Usually not in Lachen itself but higher up: around Thangu, in Chopta Valley and on the plateau towards Gurudongmar, especially from May to November. Herds move with the seasons, so sightings are likely but not guaranteed.

Can we visit a yak herders' camp?

Not as a regular tourist activity. Herders' camps lie in restricted, high areas and are people's workplaces. Watch from the road, greet herders politely and ask before photographing. A homestay host is the best way to learn about herding life.

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