Watching the Detor Chaam at Enchey

Chaam is a ritual dance of Tibetan Buddhism, performed by monks to destroy obstacles and negative forces before the new year. At Enchey it falls on the 18th and 19th days of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar, which usually means January or February. The dancers wear brocade robes and painted masks of protector deities, including Mahakala, and move slowly to drums, cymbals and long horns. Jesters slip in between the solemn dances and make the crowd laugh.

Arrive by 9 am to find a place on the steps or along the courtyard wall. The dances go on with breaks through the day, and the second day usually builds to the main ritual. Bring water, a snack, a cushion and a warm layer, since winter mornings at 1,860 m start cold even in sunshine.

Stay behind the rope or the line the monks indicate, never step into the dance ground, and avoid flash. Local families bring children and elders and often sit in the same place each year, so be ready to squeeze up. Dates move with the lunar calendar every year; we confirm them in December, and you should check current status before you travel.