Nature · Melli
A winter afternoon by the Teesta at Melli
In winter the Teesta at Melli runs low and jade-green between wide banks of sand and boulders. A quiet riverside hour, before or after the climb into the hills, shows you the river that drains almost all of Sikkim.
Photo: Shane9799 · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
The Teesta rises in the far north of Sikkim and gathers the waters of nearly the whole state before it reaches Melli and the plains. In the monsoon it is brown, loud and dangerous. From November to February it shrinks to a clear green channel between broad banks.
Find a safe spot on the bank near town with your driver's help, sit on the boulders and watch the light change on the hills. You might see rafts drifting past from upstream, or families picnicking. Just below, out of sight on the Darjeeling side, the Rangeet joins the Teesta at Tribeni.
Stay on firm ground, keep children close and never wade: the current is stronger than it looks even in winter, and dam releases upstream can raise the level. Carry your litter back. In the monsoon, admire the river only from the road or bridge.
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Questions travellers ask
Before you book
Why is the Teesta green in winter?
After the monsoon, the river carries much less silt, so its water turns clear and green-blue over stones, especially from November to February. In the monsoon, heavy rain and landslides upstream load it with sediment and it runs brown and fast.
Is it safe to go down to the Teesta riverbank?
In the dry season, on firm ground with care, yes. Do not wade or swim; the current is strong and water levels can rise suddenly after rain or upstream releases. In the monsoon, stay off the banks entirely. Keep children close at all times.
Where does the Teesta meet the Rangeet?
At Tribeni, just downstream of Melli on the Darjeeling side, where the Rangeet from West Sikkim joins the Teesta. It is a popular picnic spot. From Melli it is a short drive, but it lies in West Bengal rather than Sikkim.
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