Monasteries and shrines · Kupup
Stop at the Old Baba Mandir shrine
Visit the older, smaller shrine to Baba Harbhajan Singh on the Silk Route circuit near Kupup, built around the bunker associated with the soldier who died in 1968 and whom the army in Sikkim still honours.
Photo: Myself (Ambuj Saxena) · Public domain, Wikimedia Commons
Harbhajan Singh was an Indian Army soldier who served from 1965 until his death in October 1968 near Nathu La. A memorial board says he died after falling into a stream while escorting a mule column from Tuku La to Dongchui La. Soldiers believe he still watches over the frontier, and two shrines in Sikkim honour him.
The newer, larger Baba Mandir stands on the road between Sherathang and Kupup, near Tsomgo, and is part of every Tsomgo day trip. Silk Route travellers also stop at the older shrine on the high road between Nathang and Kupup, linked to the bunker where he was deployed. It is small, quiet and looked after by soldiers.
Remove shoes, cover your head if asked, and follow the soldiers' guidance. Offerings of water bottles and sweets are common. Photography may be restricted; ask first. Indian nationals only on this circuit. Check current status before you travel.
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What is the difference between Old Baba Mandir and new Baba Mandir?
The old shrine is the smaller one on the high Silk Route road between Nathang and Kupup, associated with Baba Harbhajan Singh's bunker. The new, larger Baba Mandir is lower on the road near Tsomgo Lake and Sherathang and is visited on most Tsomgo day trips. Both honour the same soldier.
Who was Baba Harbhajan Singh?
An Indian Army soldier of the Punjab Regiment who served from 1965 until his death in October 1968 near Nathu La. A memorial board says he fell into a stream while escorting a mule column. Soldiers revere him as a protector of the border, and shrines in his name stand in East Sikkim.
Can we visit the Old Baba Mandir on a Tsomgo day trip?
Usually not; standard Tsomgo and Baba Mandir day trips from Gangtok go to the newer shrine. The old shrine is on the Silk Route circuit towards Nathang and Kupup, which needs the circuit permit. Ask us to combine them on a Silk Route trip.
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