Culture · Labrang
Two monasteries in one morning
Visit Phodong Monastery, a Karma Kagyu house credited to 1740, and Labrang, a Nyingma monastery built 1826 to 1843, in one outing. The pairing shows two Tibetan Buddhist traditions within 2 km of each other.
Photo: Prof Ranga Sai · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Start at Phodong Monastery in the early morning, when the courtyard is quiet. Walk around the main hall and the monks' quarters, then drive or walk the 2 km up to Labrang. Phodong is Karma Kagyu, with a founding credited to Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal in 1740 on Wikipedia's infobox. Labrang is Nyingma and later, with its construction dated 1826 to 1843.
Compare what you see. Phodong's courtyard is wide and public, the setting of the December chaam. Labrang is smaller, with a museum, a bronze Karma Guru and a timber building that keeps its original frame. The forest around Labrang is cooler and quieter than the town below.
Allow three to four hours with a stop for tea in the Phodong bazaar. A small car for the day from Gangtok, with Kabi Lungchok on the way, costs about ₹3,000 to 4,500, indicative. Check current status before you travel and ask about the monasteries' opening hours.
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Questions travellers ask
Before you book
Can I visit both monasteries in one morning?
Yes. They are about 2 km apart, so you can see Phodong and then Labrang in three to four hours including stops. Start early, as Labrang can be misty in the afternoon, and check current status before you travel.
Which is better, Phodong or Labrang?
Phodong is the larger, better known, and the setting of the December chaam. Labrang is quieter, with a museum and a forest setting. We would not choose between them: the visit works best as a pair, and the two belong to different schools.
What is the best order for visiting?
Visit Phodong first, in the morning, then drive up to Labrang. This keeps the steep lane for later when you are warm, and puts the quieter monastery at the end. If you are coming for the chaam in December, spend most of the day at Phodong.
Also in Labrang
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Visiting Labrang Monastery
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Looking at Labrang's statues, texts and murals
Spend time in Labrang's museum and prayer hall, where Wikipedia records a large collection of Buddha statues, sutras and murals, and a …
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Walking up from Phodong to Labrang
Walk the steep 2 km lane from Phodong up to Labrang through forest, with the option of taking a car back. A …
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