Buddhist, Lepcha and Bhutia pilgrims · North Sikkim
Tholung Kamsel
Traditionally every three years, in spring; the 2021 Kamsel was held 23–26 November
Photo: Amitabha Gupta · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Every three years the sealed boxes of relics at Tholung Monastery in Upper Dzongu are opened, aired in the sun and shown to pilgrims. Kamsel (also spelled Kamsil or Khamsel) dates to the late 18th century and is overseen by Sikkim's Ecclesiastical Affairs Department.
Tholung Monastery, in remote Upper Dzongu inside the buffer zone of Khangchendzonga National Park, holds some of Sikkim's most precious religious objects. According to the monastery's history as summarised on Wikipedia, sacred manuscripts and relics from other monasteries were moved here for safety during the Gorkha invasions of the late 18th century, and the site was revealed as sacred in 1760 by the fourth Lhatsun, with a monastery built in 1789.
Tholung is cold and damp, so the objects, kept in more than a dozen sealed boxes, are taken out every three years to be aired and dried in the sun. The name Kamsel refers to this airing. Pilgrims come to see and receive blessings from items associated with Lhatsun Chenpo, the 17th-century lama revered as a founder of Buddhism in Sikkim, and other treasures.
The custom lapsed for nine years after the 2011 earthquake and a 2016 landslide cut access, and was revived from 23 to 26 November 2021, when EastMojo reported more than 6,000 devotees. Dates are set by the Ecclesiastical Affairs Department. Check current status before you travel.
If you go
Tips for the day
- Pilgrims drive to the road head near Bey in Upper Dzongu, then walk 10–14 km through forest; allow 5–6 hours up.
- You need a Dzongu permit and, as an outsider, should travel with a local guide or homestay host.
- Carry rain gear, a torch, warm layers and your own water bottle; facilities on the trail are minimal.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Tholung Kamsel
When is the next Tholung Kamsel?
Kamsel is traditionally held every three years, but it has not always kept to schedule: it lapsed for nine years and was revived in November 2021. The Ecclesiastical Affairs Department of the Government of Sikkim decides the dates. We do not want to guess, so ask us and check current status before you travel.
How do I reach Tholung Monastery for Kamsel?
Drive from Mangan into Upper Dzongu to the road head near Bey, then walk. Sources give 10 to 14 km, with about 1,000 m of climb through dense forest, taking 5 to 6 hours. The monastery sits at about 2,400 m. Kamsel days bring hundreds of pilgrims, so homestays fill early.
What is shown during the Kamsel?
Sacred texts, ritual objects and personal belongings associated with Lhatsun Chenpo and other lamas are brought out of their sealed boxes, aired and shown to pilgrims, who receive blessings. A metal chorten at Tholung is said to hold the ashes of an incarnation of Lhatsun Chenpo. Photography rules are set by the monks: always ask.
Can tourists attend the Tholung Kamsel?
Respectful visitors can, provided they hold a Dzongu permit and come as pilgrims rather than sightseers. It is a religious occasion run by the state's ecclesiastical department and the monastery. Walk with a local guide, dress modestly, keep to the instructions of monks and volunteers, and carry your own food and water.
Go for it
Where it happens and how to get there
monastery
Tholung M…2,400M
Tholung Monastery
Upper Dzongu's relic monastery, opened every three years
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