Nyingma monastic community and Gangtok Buddhist families · East Sikkim
Enchey Detor Chaam
Jan–Feb, 18th–19th days of the 12th Tibetan month (lunar)
Photo: Amitabha Gupta · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Each winter, the monks of Enchey Monastery above Gangtok perform the Detor Chaam, two days of masked dances in the courtyard on the 18th and 19th days of the 12th Tibetan month. It clears away obstacles before Losar and draws much of Gangtok up the hill.
Enchey, the Nyingma monastery on the ridge about 3 km above MG Marg, holds its annual Detor Chaam on the 18th and 19th days of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar, which usually falls in January or February, according to Wikipedia's article on the monastery. Like other Chaam, it is a ritual performed by monks to destroy negative forces before the new year, not a show for visitors.
Dancers in brocade robes and painted masks representing protector deities, including Mahakala, move slowly in the courtyard to drums, cymbals and long horns, while jesters break the solemnity. Enchey also performs the larger Singhe Chaam, the snow-lion dance, once every few years. Gangtok families come up the hill in their best clothes, often bringing children and elders, and sit in the same places each year.
Arrive by 9 am for a seat on the courtyard steps, bring a cushion and a warm layer, and stay behind the rope. Dates move with the lunar calendar every year; we confirm them in December. Check current status before you travel.
If you go
Tips for the day
- Take a taxi up early; parking near the monastery is very limited on Chaam days.
- Bring a cushion or mat for the stone steps and water for a long morning.
- Ask before photographing families, and never step into the dance ground.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Enchey Detor Chaam
When is the Enchey Chaam?
On the 18th and 19th days of the 12th Tibetan month, usually in January or February, according to Wikipedia's article on Enchey Monastery. The Gregorian dates change each year with the lunar calendar. We confirm them in December; check current status before you travel.
How do we get to the Enchey Chaam?
Enchey is about 3 km from MG Marg, 10–15 minutes by taxi, at around ₹200–300 one way. On Chaam days traffic and parking on the ridge road are tight, so go early or walk up, which takes 50–60 minutes. Agree a pickup point with your driver for the return.
Is there an entry fee for the Enchey Chaam?
No ticket is normally charged; it is a religious festival open to the public. A small offering at the monastery is welcome. Organisers may restrict access to some areas, so follow their instructions, and stay behind the rope or line marking the dance ground.
Is the Enchey Chaam suitable for children?
Yes, with care. Local families bring children, who usually enjoy the masks and the jesters. The crowd can be dense and the stone steps hard, so sit near an exit, bring snacks and water, and keep small children close. Some masks are fierce, which can frighten very young children.
Go for it
Where it happens and how to get there
monastery
Enchey Mo…1,860M
Enchey Monastery
Gangtok's Nyingma monastery on the ridge, 3 km above MG Marg
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